My UT47 kit arrived from keyhive last weekend. I’ve been working on building it all week, along with other projects, as I was missing a few springs in order to finish the switches I was modding. I decided to use the MX Clear stems I swapped out the Fourier to make Cherry Zilents, since I use that as my work keyboard.
If you build one yourself, you’ll need:
- 47 diodes. If you got them from keyhive, network_operations threw 1-2 extras in just in case. Don’t let it freak you out if you have leftovers
- 1-2 Pro Micros depending on whether or not you’re doing LEDs, which I’m not, so I won’t address how to work those
- An micro USB cable or micro to USB adapter and some AWG30 for the USB bridge
- A Mini USB port
- A WS2812B strip, because underglow is life, and 3 strands of AWG30
- PCB and plates
- 6-12 standoffs
- A single PCB mount 2u stablizer, clipped and lubed (techincally optional)
Set the diodes in the holes. If you mount them topside the bottom side is easier to work with for modding RGB. If you mount them bottom side, they’re easier to replace if one goes bad. It’s preference here, really. I went topside.
Bend the legs a bit so they stay in place when you flip it over, or if you want use some painters tape to hold them in place. Then flip and clip.
Once you have ’em nicely trimmed, solder ’em up.
I accidentally scratched the board with my flush cutter near the top right. Don’t do that. Don’t be me.
Mount your pro micro header pins and mini USB port, then solder them in.
I bent the read legs on mine out for support. No idea what else you would do with them.
Mount your switches and stabs to your plate, making sure all the pins are straight.
Flip it over and solder ’em in.
Once the switches are all soldered, you can go ahead and mount your pro micro. Make sure the orientation is correct or you will short your board! I also flashed mine first, just to be sure it worked. Removing these things is a chore, I’d recommend flashing it first. I flashed with QMK, which was party of the reason I was delayed in getting this all put together. The repo wasn’t up, so I had to work with filoxo’s WIP and make manual corrections. Don’t worry though, he’s got it all fixed and available in the main repo now!
Time to build a bridge! You can see how network_operations did his in his build log, but I went crazy. I soldered a strand of AWG30 to the corresponding pins on some OTG to USB adapters I had lying around for a PiGRRL Zero.
I was still waiting on my kapton tape to ship, so I used electrical tape to wrap it, then soldered the pins to the bridge ports.
Finally, time to slap down some kapton tape and mount some WS2812B strips.
You want to wire the DIN to the 2nd pin from the left on the bottom set of unused pro micro pinouts. That looks like D2 if you look at a pro micro pinout, but D3 from the pro micro runs to D2 there, so it’s the correct pin. Next to it is the GND pinout. The 4th pinout in on the top set is the VCC/5V pinout. Run those to your WS2812B strip.
More tape to cover the pinouts, and strands of AWG30 everywhere. You can just use a single linear strip and not have to deal with quite a mess of wiring, but I wanted light for days.
All done, bridge is back in place. Fire it up.
After you burn your retinas, lower the brightness and take a nice picture.
Beautiful, you did it! Thanks to filoxo on github for building the UT47 in QMK, bspsbee for fixing the matrix.c to support RGB, and drashna for merging the pull request fast as lightning. They made the dream come true.
Now sit back and admire your work, then type up a sweet build log with the board now that you’ve fallen in love with it. <3